Escape from LA. Days 77-78

It's remarkable how soon LA stopped being LA when you head north...if you know what I mean. After seemingly being in the city for four solid days, approaching from the west, but within a day, we were seemingly in the countryside, especially after leaving Santa Clarita, where my confusion as to where I was exactly was heightened by running past a UK red telephone box on the outskirts! Being passed by groups of cyclists always makes me worry there are hills ahead as I find cyclists seem to be a fairly masochistic bunch and after meeting the guys at a nice looking French restaurant seemingly in the middle of nowhere (Not open – sad face.) I found what they'd been riding towards. Big hills. Heading off road again in my own bout of masochism I found myself taking a bit of a short cut through a residential area that had huge houses, but all the roads were dirt tracks with huge ruts and puddles. Seemed strange as the houses look like they'd be lived in by people with enough money to get a fella to put some tarmac down for them. Taking a no vehicular access sign with a pinch of salt I got truly wild and as a result found myself doing a 40 minute mile up what I guessed was a 50% gradient, but had a decent reward at the top, an amazing view which looked even better after getting enough oxygen in me. The descent was even steeper – a proper lean back and pray job, with running out of the question in parts. When I got to the bottom, with my legs burning, I had a dead straight road through the towns of Palmdale and Lancaster to get to our RV site for the night, at the local showgrounds. The road was a bit weird in the fact that this town was huge – but looked like it had been put up in a hurry, with the same dirt roads, this time in a grid pattern, as you'd expect of a place like this just with a little more… You get my point. After getting directions of a very friendly security guard at the local Turf Club (Like an arena sized bookies) I saw Jenny – behind a 12 foot fence. No way round apart from a three mile trek. The guy must have thought the gates were open. I couldn't quite get under the fence (despite a rib crushing attempt), there was no way through, so over was the only way. No, as you may know, after a bout of strenuous activity over a prolonged period of time, the muscles get a bit tight. This means that scaling this fence was both painful and comedic to the passing observer, but over I got, just in time to watch some guy in the campsite drive his Corvette round and round for an hour. As you do.

 

Start: Jct of Via Princessa and Sierra Highway. Finish: Antelope Valley Fairground RV Park 35.83 miles. Day 75 Tune of the Day: Aces High – Iron Maiden: Flying high over the mountains, ending up in Lancaster

I'd gone for an early start and the morning was the coldest yet, just at freezing and so a dayglo/reflective/beardy Michelin man set off past a sign that said “Musical Road” and wondered what events had transpired in Palmdale to give it its name. I heard a car coming in the distance so moved out of the centre to relative safety. I indulged in some character assessment of the driver who was coming down at a rate of knots with his stereo audibly blaring from a quarter of a mile away. I couldn't make out what tune it was, until I realised it was the road making the noise! I thought about going back to see if I could make it play something and later on I wished I had as I'd actually gone a mile past where I was meant to make a turn, meaning my morning run had gone from 11 to 13 miles. As I should have learned yesterday and maybe from the previous leg. Google Maps, without satellte images can be a bit misleading as to the quality of the road. 35th Street, was even less of a road that the ones arrowing through Lancaster and was basically a 4x4 track with huge puddles that forced you to go cross country and jumping across streams after the recent deluge. This was the third day in a row now of either hills or leg-sapping terrain and I was desperate for concrete to give my muscles, if not joints, a rest. Fortunately it arrived after Rosamond and I'd resolved I wasn't going to try any shortcuts, I just wanted response from the ground. As another mile long train went past, my eyes were drawn to what looked like scrap cars on my left. It was however, a custom car place, with a Back to the Future (Actual!) police car, and futuristic relics from Mad Max, as well as a pretty sweet Cadillac with a mannequin's legs poking out from the passenger seat. A nice uneventful run ended in Mojave, home to an actual Spaceport! Olivia mentioned that this probably won't seem so remarkable in a few years. Virgin Galactic operate here, as well as in New Mexico, but I didn't see Richard about. The only real thing I did see was a huge number of passenger planes – apparently this is where they come to have a rest, or retire, as it's so dry. No rest for me. 8 miles more, to a spot for the night by the side of highway 14, to the west of California City, the third largest city in California by area...though I imagine you've never heard of it. It's designer intended it to be as big as Los Angeles, but things didn't quite turn out that way. Check out this article if you need to occupy yourself for a few minutes more on your commute, or wherever this blog finds you. It's pretty cool. http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/california-city-unbuilt-suburb

Start: Antelope Valley Fairground RV Park. Finish: West of California City, just off Highway 14. 35.61 miles. Day 76 Tune of the Day: Never Get Old – Nathaniel Rateliff and the Night Sweats. Party tune at the end of the day.

I figured since I'd gone this far, I might as well turn around, just keep on going. Day 76.

Wow. That was a long sleep. I was kinda hungry so I ate, I needed to go, so I went...and after that I don't really know what happened. I just remember yawning...and the next thing I knew...it was 2017 and I was in Liverpool. It must have been a wild night after reaching the ocean! Anyway, I was kinda enjoying all that running...and I had some new shoes so I guessed there was only one thing for it. Olivia (you may remember her from the Fort Stockton era of Texas) had been waiting for me to get running for a long time and she was waiting for us at LAX and took us to our overnight staging post, the Courtyard Marriott in Pasadena, where our room was full of balloons and a “Welcome Back” banner that she'd drawn with her own fair hand! A lovely surprise and I just wished we'd got to the hotel earlier to enjoy the indoor pool, but queues at US Immigration had put paid to that. My amazing sense of planning also meant an early night as I had company for the first part of my run. Blue Benadum, one of Nike's best running coaches and crack marathoner and his Jedi Apprentice, Raul Arcos were to be waiting for us at Santa Monica Pier for a 7am start. I like the fact that I hardly ever got out running on the first leg before half seven and now we had to travel an hour to get to the start – oh well – motivation to get up has always helped me as I don't tend to function well before 10. A jetlagged but well-insulated me got out of the hire car and saw two smiling faces beaming down from the pier. We set off after a bit of filming for KTLA and my legs that had not really been accustomed to speed in the last few months were a source of worry, but they seemed happy enough. After I'd sped away from the guys (OK. They had to go…) I found myself in an area where there seemed to be a bit of money sloshing about - I've seen smaller walls for some prisons! There seemed to be a general tone of UP on the roads as I headed up Mandeville Canyon Road and as I planned to be solo for most of the day, this was a bit of a concern for my possibly over-rested legs. I'd assumed that because we were still in LA, I'd be able to pick snacks and drinks up en-route. Think again, sonny Jim, I was almost instantly in an area that seemed to have lots of houses, but not much else. As I was swigging the last of my water, I ran past a chap attending to his car, that had two very nice road bikes in the back. He'll understand, I thought. He did. Larry Carter, was his name and he headed in to grab some water and came back out with a cereal protein bar for me. He offered to fill up my second water bottle, but I as a little embarrassed to say I'd found it on the floor (It was a Camelbak one! They're amazing! It just needed a wash…). His wife Nancy came out to hear about the adventure as well, though she unfortunately didn't bring out her Aussie terrier, that I found out about later, when she followed the page! Weirdly, I then ran past a house with a huge Australian flag and Aussie plates on the car. My navigation isn't that bad, honest. Nancy's directions were a godsend as there was no internet reception round here and she also forewarned me about the 14% gradient I was going to head up. After I gasped my way to the top of a huge hill, I saw a fleet footed chap accelerating away and like an idiot I decided to catch him. Nick was a former college runner and he was still bloody fast. I paid for that later, but I was glad I got to say hello, as he was a nice guy as well as quick. Not long after crossing the famed Mulholland Drive I stopped at a gas station to grab a drink and something to eat and I met my final character of the day! The lady behind the counter, Magdalena was an 8-time LA Marathon veteran and was so taken with my run, she gave me a copy of her CD – a blues/jazz fusion which on listening has a good bit of Bjork about it too! I nearly declined as my hands were full already, I'm glad I didn't, but the situation got worse when I found a California licence plate on the road and this meant I had 10 miles of carrying my three bits of acquired booty down Balboa Drive and on to Santa Clarita, where I would be reunited with Jenny. Nads and Olivia had been on a mission to take the hire car back to LAX, then traipse across the metropolis on public transport after they'd bust Jenny out of storage earlier, in Santa Clarita. As I said. A mission. Such a mission, I got to the end before them and set out disobeying the “No Loitering” sign in McDonalds till they got there.

Day 1 done. Nearly 33 miles. It felt good. My mind's been a bit of a roller coaster the last few weeks. Loving the run, wanting to go back, but balancing the mission with the feeling that I sort of should be getting on with that “life” thing. Worries about funding, trying to get sponsors, planning routes to beat the winter weather and waiting on visas. All of this has vanished (for now at least). Bring the madness. Run or bust. Run till bust? We'll see. Full steam ahead, let's reach another ocean and think about that sort of stuff when we get there.

Start: Santa Monica Pier. Finish: Jct of Via Princessa and Sierra Highway. 32.91 miles. Day 74 Tune of the Day: Blitzkrieg Bop – The Ramones: Hey ho! Let's go!

Running Clear To The Ocean... Days 74 and 75

 Surely nothing could go wrong, hey? Well maybe someone was getting cocky. Either that, or just plain lazy. I'd seen on the map that I could save a WHOLE MILE by ignoring Google directions to leave the RV Park and instead head directly down a hill with the same gradient as that of the Cooper's Hill Cheese Rolling (For the non-British audience, check this out, for an idea: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeEr5-n6F8Y), though this one contained thorn bushes and huge patches of prickly pear cacti, just to add a frisson of danger. Watching from the top, I'm sure Nads despaired and Alex was immensely amused, but the whole affair was a disappointment in that it passed off very unremarkably. Alex had very kindly offered to tail Nads north of LA to a town called Santa Clarita, where we would stay for a few days after the run and eventually be running through, so they could drive back into LA in his more manoeuvrable little hire car, leaving me to my own devices for a few hours. I planned to do about 12 miles before a break today as again, my self-preservation behaviour patterns had largely been abandoned over the last few days. Just as I was checking to see what team Liverpool were going to field in a match that was just about to start I saw a Mexican sports bar called Tipsy Wings. Just as I'd been saved by Dos Amigos in the Arizona exodus (for an entirely different reason – see earlier!!), I saw this as a sign, ordered myself some topped fries, a large Dr Pepper and found out how the guys were getting on. By the guys, I mean both Liverpool and my valiant support crew. They'd dropped the RV off and I felt that they should take their time, and get a nice lunch, for their efforts, of course, nothing to do with the fact that watching the whole match would have otherwise left me an hour late for our meeting point. All went so swimmingly, I had a pint of Lagunitas IPA at halftime, served by the newly-Liverpool suppporting Lalo; they had a nice lunch; Liverpool won and I was only 10 minutes late for the final stop before close of running for the day. This was a special stop. I'd arranged them to meet me at the Weingart Stadium, home of the East Los Angeles College Huskies, but more importantly, the scene for filming of the scene in Forrest Gump where Forrest, playing football for the University of Alabama, scores a touchdown and kept running out of the stadium. This happened so often, the crowd mosaic needed to be changed from “Run, Forrest, Run” to “Stop, Forrest, Stop”! In case you're wondering, after chatting to a friendly member of staff who turned a blind eye, I did repeat the scene!

Frivolities over, it was time to head to LA proper. I'd already caught a glimpse of the LA skyline on the approach to the stadium and this became more prominent as I moved the last few miles down E. Cesar Chavez Avenue and towards Union Station. I couldn't get over the feeling how surreal this was. It felt a bit like what an Olympic marathoner must feel like when he or she knows it's in the bag and they can see the stadium, ready for the victory lap, but it being easy and they're not out of breath. I kept saying “unbelievable”, over and over again, looking up at the tops of buildings like a country boy on his first trip to the big city. I was also struck by the number of homeless people around, especially with the contrast of the shiny, modern buildings and trappings of wealth. I took a slight detour onto an area known as Skid Row, an area notorious for its homelessness problem. The current accepted view of most homeless charities (certainly in the UK) is that no-one needs to be homeless and that you shouldn't give money directly to the homeless as it won't be spent...wisely, shall we say. I grew in the next couple of days to find that there seems to be a much higher percentage of homeless here who appear to be mentally ill and maybe not as able to be helped as easily by the numerous hard-working charities in LA trying to alleviate this hardship. This surely has to be a consequence of the nature of the US healthcare system and much as Obamacare, AKA the Affordable Health Care Act has its critics, I saw first hand what happens when the poorest in society are not helped by the state and it made me even more appreciative of the NHS and our welfare system in the UK. The slow, stealthy dismantling that appears to be underway of both these institutions makes me shudder. I think Alex had noted this and was worried when I said we were staying in a hostel-cum-hotel for the night, as he'd had some bad experiences in the past, but our lodgings for the night were comfortable enough and good value, despite our misfortune to be in a room next to some people who appeared to our ears to be shooting an “art” movie the next morning.

After a quick debrief, we headed out to a famous bar-restaurant in LA, called Coles, apparent originators of the “French Dip” sandwich (Everyone in LA knows it…) and also the scene for Forrest and Lieutenant Dan's NYE party in 1972, where I partook in one of the French Dips (two thumbs up!) and when I headed to the bar, a lovely couple called James and Morgan who had overheard me telling the barman why I was wearing the Bubba Gump cap, bought me a drink. I took James' recommendation of the porter he was drinking which warmed me nicely up for a quick walk around downtown taking in the Walt Disney Concert Hall, the Broad, a couple more social establishments, including a “Public School of Craft Beer”, a return to Coles and a welcome late night. I had something on the next day, but I couldn't remember what...

Start: East Shore RV Park. Finish: Stay on Main Hotel, Downtown LA. 30.1 miles

Whatever I had planned for today, it wasn't meeting John Savoy, but my day was better for it. AKA, The Man in the White Hat, AKA The Diamond Jew, AKA Monster-in-Chief, the Bob Dylan lookalike had been previously sighted in the hotel looking very dapper and sporting said White Hat and when he saw my camera outside he wasted no time putting on a show worthy of the Edinburgh Fringe. Somebody get that man a dollar and an agent, so he can get his Project Skytower off the ground. He told me he was a pathological liar on the verge of relapsing into a nervous breakdown and ashamed of the fact he'd drunk a pint of Bourbon in two weeks. I know enough people who do that in a night, so I hoped my reassurances worked on his fragile (or was it?) psyche. He wanted to see the video on Facebook, which he wasn't sure existed in my country but as I was in America I had permission to use it as I saw fit. I had a look on Facebook. Couldn't find him. Was he ever even there? Fortunately my GoPro captured one of the few times I'd caught a great encounter on camera.

After that slice of Hollywood, it was time to run there myself to meet up with the crew. Hollywood is such a variable place, a bit like the more tacky bits of Oxford Street, but with the surreal nature of crossing the road standing next to Optimus Prime and your eyes being inevitably drawn to the floor by the Walk of Fame. Everyone's got a favourite. I like the fact that Muhammad Ali had his mounted on the wall of the Dolby Theatre as no-one was going to walk all over him. There were two I was on the look out for, one was of Sally Field, Forrest's momma and also Tom Hanks himself. You may remember him from a few films like Turner and Hooch, Big… Nah. I'm out. Speaking about Big – I ran past another Zoltar machine, but I was too scared to risk a gamble like that at this point. I found the guys, with Alex busy reciting facts about Tom's neighbour on the walk, a certain Wink Martindale, to passers by and got my photo next to the star, rubbing the gold for some good luck. There's so much to know about Wink, we ran over on our lunch and I realised I was actually going to have to be pretty quick running the 12 miles to Santa Monica to make sure we we there for sunset and our planned meeting with Kacey Montoya, KTLA-5 reporter AND weather anchor (!) and Paul, cameraman extraordinaire. I was also excited to see Jamie and Luli again, who had made the trek from Temecula once more, old pals Helen and Chris and their girls, Emily, 3 and Charlotte – 3 weeks! Alex had also been joined by school friend Chris, who lives locally so we pretty much had a crowd! There was a bit of a hold up as rather than a police escort taking me across the road, I had traffic lights of all things, so I was looking at guys, including Jamie and Luli with some huge signs that I refused to look at till the end of the Pier and Paul, with Kacey up the road behind me as I'd gone a bit tooooo fast! A hasty retreat was beaten to do a little bit of filming and then it was on. I was prowling at the lights like a caged animal (which is a bad thing, remember people!) desperate to get under the arch and even then it was a little bitty as we filmed little pieces here and there. Everyone apart from me and Alex had now headed to the end of the Pier as we jogged together (Alex keeping pace impressively in flip flops…) to the end of the Pier. Jamie's signs had switched from “Run Robla Run” to “Stop Robla Stop (For now…!), which was of course prudent, H+S wise, with it being the end of the Pier. I paused briefly...thought about it...(Nah...didn't really!) and turned round. I figured since I'd come this far… A spontaneous jump for joy and fist pump 10m afterwards and I was done...for now. Kacey began the interview… “Why had I done it? What were my plans? How did I manage it?”. A crowd was forming, everyone was smiling, but none more than me. I'd done what I'd wanted to do for years. I'd run across America. I'd ran clear to the ocean and the only thing for it now was, as I'd been told by Chris Finnill, now a FELLOW trans-continental runner, I had to get in the Pacific and go right under. Despite warnings of hypothermia I informed the KTLA guys that I'd cope. I was Northern and stripped off as I ran to the Pacific and dived in after a few Baywatch strides into the water. It was bloody cold, by the way, especially after I got out, but both Jamie/Luli and Chris had kindly bought a couple of towels and, to be honest, I didn't care.

I got half dressed and we headed for a meal at Bubba Gump. Standing outside I was still shoeless, my retro Nikes resting by the front desk. Nads nudged me and asked if I'd just put “that” there. I didn't know what she was referring to, so she gestured towards the shoes, where a single, pure white feather had nestled by the sole of one of these. For fans of the film, you'll instantly get the reference. At both the start and the end of the film, a single, pure white feather floats into and eventually, out of Forrest's life, bookending his incredible story. For this to have happened here is beyond uncanny and the significance of this was discussed over our delicious dinner. We finished here, saying goodnight to Helen, (her) Chris and family and we headed to the Kings Head, an English pub in Santa Monica, where over a few beers we waited for 10 pm. We'd seen the incredibly hard work KTLA guys still in their van at the end of the Pier, trying to get the piece ready for the news at 10. Ready it was and we watched in one quiet room of the pub, with a group of new pals erupting as they first recognised Santa Monica, then me, still clad from head to toe in Forrest gear - my white, university red and royal blue Nike Cortez, damp shorts and check shirt, all topped off with the Bubba Gump cap. No way was I changing! The piece was amazing and unbeknown to us, the big room holding about 100 people for the pub quiz that I'd asked a special bonus question at (Where have I run from? Guessed correctly after three goes...I wonder why?) was going crazy, as they'd stopped the quiz and turned the volume up on the TVs. When I returned to the room, I was greeted like a conquering hero, with the whole bar chanting my name. Of course this was nice, but also a little weird as well, I'd only gone for a run, after all! OK, it was a long one at over 2200 miles, but I think it will be a long time before it will all sink in. I kept saying it in my head as I went to sleep that night. I'd ran clear to the ocean. I also remembered that I'd turned round. We still have the feather, so the story continues.

I was gonna keep on going.

Start: Stay on Main Hotel, Downtown LA. Finish: The ocean. Santa Monica Pier 21.35 miles

Total: 2229.64 miles