3,000 miles of Livin' on the Edge. Days 98-99

Hangover or no hangover...drumroll...no hangover! Just the long drive back to where I'd been forced to chuck in the towel yesterday. This was followed by a trek past the tens of RV Parks that had knocked us back yesterday as they only cater to over-55's. We had to beg to get a space in the KOA which was full to the brim. I past the sign signifying the start/end of Apache Junction and got onto Highway 60 again, which would take us up into the mountains before dropping us onto the 70 for our entry (re-entry!) into New Mexico. I often pass things I wish I had more time for and today it was a local gas station that had a 10 tap craft beer filling station – buy a container and off you go. Wonderful idea…

The terrain was mostly open desert and scrub to begin with though as we climbed into the mountains and the Tonto National Forest (The largest National Forest in Arizona and named, reputedly, after a splinter group of Apaches who were deemed foolish for living in such a remote location, away from trading routes), it became quite spectacular with valleys and peaks, dotted with Saguaros and Palo Verdes. I managed to sneak onto another road construction site which is nice to switch off from traffic and have a slightly softer surface underfoot all the way into the last town of the day – a little place called Superior with a littler museum – the World's Smallest Museum, apparently. It was unfortunately closed, but you could make out some of the artefacts of daily life that it contained. I wasn't too upset as I'd had another point of focus occupying my mind all day. This was the day we would pass the 3,000 mile total at a lay-by a further climb up from the town. Nads was waiting and filming as I unfurled my banner stating the achievement and it was great to have it right at the end of the day as it was met with relief, as much as anything. While we were mucking about taking photos, a couple of cars pulled up to see if we were OK. The drivers were Kenny and Sheba, a local couple who'd had quite an eventful day themselves involving a detour, corn on the cob and a breakdown. You can make up your own version of events! They were very excited and glad they'd stopped, offering dinner at theirs, water for now, a lift if we needed it...the moon on a stick. We explained that we were OK, Kenny grabbed a photo and they promised to follow the journey...would they?

Start: Dutton Family Theatre, Mesa. Finish: Highway 60, 1.5 miles north of Superior. 39.5 miles. Day 98 Tune of the Day: Alice Cooper – Poison. Phoenix http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qq4j1LtCdww

Well the answer to that question was a resounding yes! Sheba messaged me first thing to see what are whereabouts were going to be as she wanted to grab a photo, as she didn't the previous night, buy us lunch and possibly bring her Aunt along too! This was fine with us and we agreed to meet her in Globe about 25 miles in. First of all I had to negotiate a reportedly dangerous tunnel and a tough first few miles, with a 1500 foot climb on the cards. On the approach to the tunnel, there was an unusual, but poignant sign. The words were “The consequences of jumping from this bridge are FATAL AND TRAGIC”. Above it there was a number for a crisis hotline. This makes you take a step back and contemplate a lot of stuff, when you wonder what sort of turmoil people have gone through to find themselves requiring the info from these signs. I hope the hotline is the decision people would take. I looked over the edge. I started running again. Quickly. The tunnel wasn't so bad and to be honest, the hill felt fine and I met Nads at a place aptly named “Top-of-the World” and onto Miami – the Copper Capital of the World, apparently, complete with ugly scarred hillsides where mountains are reduced bit by bit to nothing. I didn't get to see the historic centre, but it was a sad sight from the 60, with most businesses closed and it resembling more of a ghost city in this part of town. I hope that once the mining companies have finished here they do something to help the town, but we all know how those things usually go, hey? I chuckled as I saw the most bizarre sight of a herd of cows grazing hay on a 60 degree slope, more suited to mountain goats, or the Bighorn sheep that roam these parts. Apparently it is to encourage vegetation on the slopes to try and make these spoil heaps a bit more attractive. Globe was a much bigger place and seemed to go on forever...but most places seem like that to me before lunch. We met Sheba, though her aunt couldn't make it and she was true to her word, buying us lunch, regaling us of tales of the area, how many people she'd told about the run and the full story about the corn on the cob incident. I'd met Sheba on the road, prior to lunch, with her whooping from the car window, then filming me on the approach! We were chatting away so much, I was now getting behind, so we tore ourselves away, but not before she'd given me two very kind gifts, a type of stone called an Apache Tear and also an amethyst, polished by her dad, who unfortunately isn't around anymore. I found it hard to accept as it meant a lot to her, but she wanted me to have it to help relieve stress and that's what it'll do! II couldn't help but be in a good mood after that and I was also pretty well rested, so the privilege of then being able to run through the San Carlos Apache Reservation was really something else. I'm not one for being all new-age, but I felt that I had some sort of connection with...something...the history, the land, the people...I don't know. What I do know is that it was a really uplifting experience and listening to the Tune of the Day made we wonder whether we can arrest the slide this world seems to be in… DEEP. Lucky Nads was up the road to take me back to the RV Park and get me out of this contented melancholy. I was probably hungry.

Start: Highway 60, 1.5 miles north of Superior. Finish: Highway 70, 9.5 miles east of Apache Gold Casino RV resort. 41.0 miles. Day 99 Tune of the Day: Aerosmith – Livin' on the Edge. The lyrics seemed very prescient, 25 years after they were written and this came on as I was running through some amazing scenery in the Apache Reservation. It made me want to hug my two charities for the work they're doing. I am of course, always Livin' on the Edge currently… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nqcL0mjMjw

Total: 3041.72 miles

Flight thru the Phoenix. Days 96-97

No issues to report overnight. Good. In fact the first run was pretty unremarkable too apart from when I reached the van I was immediately told to be quiet by Nads. No change there, as I'm often booming whne I come into the mothership due to me having my music on still, but this time, it was warranted. Nads had noticed some movement in the distance from the RV and then realised it was all around us. There was a group of ground squirrels popping up frm their burrows, that I'd scared underground on my approach, but bit by bit, they began to re-emerge and the advantage of Jenny's blacked out windows meant we could watch them without needing to hide! This is one of the few times we've actually seen live land based wildlife, so it was a real treat. The second surprise of the day was the town called...Surprise. I wondered if anything unexpected would happen and as soon as I thought that it did. I found a calendar called “Finding Jesus” on the floor, still in its wrapper and reduced to 20 cents as it was the 2016 version. I'm not winding you up, but this is like a Where's Wally, but for the Messiah! That cheeky Jesus is lurking in the crowd in 12 scenes such as music festivals and sporting events. We haven't sat down properly to digest this, but it was certainly worth carrying back for 7 miles, despite the plastic making my arm all sweaty.

As we got more urban, my right arm was starting to get tired by the increased frequency of waving to cars. I kept thinking I'd give up, but the last car always seemed to give an enthusiastic response and I was sucked in for another round. It was pretty warm, compared to what we've been used to and seeing as we were almost in Phoenix, this was NOT a surprise. Phoenix is th ehottest city in all of the USA and here's a handy explanation why: http://www.azcentral.com/story/news/local/arizona-weather/2016/06/16/why-is-phoenix-so-hot/85950934/

It was actually like a gorgeous English summer's day and very fitting when I realised I was at the corner of Yorkshire and Grand. Anyone from Yorkshire, or who knows a bit about the place will realise how cool this was. It made me wish I was back home a bit and maybe in Birmingham, as Black Sabbath were playing their last ever concert at that moment. I finished the day off listening to tunes such as Iron Man, Sabbath, Bloody Sabbath and the Tune of the Day, which you can catch below.

Start: San Domingo Parkway, just south of Allah. Finish: Highway 60 near Walmart, Peoria. 33.5 miles. Day 96 Tune of the Day: Black Sabbath – Paranoid. Sabbath played their last ever gig today in Birmingham. Pretty much the founders of heavy metal. All the good bands are going away… :( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkXHsK4AQPs

An early start for me as I'd a fairly big day. This was a result of arranging an interview 21 miles away with the guys from the Arizona Republic, the biggest newspaper in the state, which I was pretty chuffed about. I was also doing this unsupported as I was running through the heart of the city and we've found that this type of plan isn't an RV's friend, with specific experience of Phoenix when we visited for the NFL in November. I took my hydration pack, a few Nakd bars, a waist bag with the bottle full of milk and my usual amount of porridge oats, in the hope that they would soak (No jam or syrup – error!)and set off. I deviated from my usual plan so I could have my breakfast at the Phoenix Art Museum and this meant a 12.5 mile opening run. On some of this, I was joined by Frank, an Ethiopian-American, who'd just moved to Phoenix. Stereotypically, he was an ace runner and I was finding he was pulling me along a little quicker than I would have liked, but it was still bearable. As a result of my lack of knowledge of Phoenix tourist geography nd my selection of the quickest route, I saw very little of the good stuff and was in more of an industrial area for most of my city traversing. My notable sites, were more quirky, including a massive metal Breast Cancer ribbon on a trailer that took me back to the Louisiana Wear it Pink girls and ladies, the Grand Canal, which wasn't quite like Venice and then the important one. Three tiny little scrutlets (mine and Nads' name for little scruffy dogs) were foraging for scraps of food on the street, I assume they were strays. Two ran away as they afraid, but the cutest one was very friendly and came right over. I genuinely thought of going: “Mine now” and radioing for help from Nads, giving her the best surprise ever, as she said if we find a stray it may well find itself in the UK next year. I couldn't bring myself to tear him away from his two pals though, who were hiding, looking out from a nearby bush. I hope they get picked up and rehomed as they were little cuties.

I ran past the Tovrea Castle, a sort of folly on a hill, beloved of Phoenix and soon enough I was at the Tempe Bridge, though feeling very flat. I was cheered up briefly by the arrival of Alexis and Patrick the AR news team, who made the interview fun and Patrick took some fantastic pictures as I ran over the bridge into Tempe, a buzzing, hipster type area, right up my street, all around the colossal Sun Devil Stadium. I kinda thought it would be great to live there, but then I remembered how hot it gets… I forged on, feeling pretty rubbish and negative, worrying about the length of the run, how tired I felt and just generally wanting to stop. I was given the opportunity 6 miles before the scheduled end when the battery on my GPS ran out as I'd obviously not charged it fully. Seemed like fate to me. I called Nads back and we headed to the RV Park - at least we had something fun planned. Well...planned was a loose term. We walked into Apache Junction and found a great little restaurant called Dirtwater Springs where we bagged a prime spot to watch one of the best Superbowls in recent history, though my heart broke for the poor Falcons and had some good beer – Alaskan Amber and some Fat Tire. Of course we left with everyone saying “Bye Forrest!” I spoke to Nads on the way home about my worries and emotions on the run today. Every now and again I have a blip, though I was worried that this could be something a bit more serious. I resolved to sleep on it and get on as normally as I could tomorrow.

Start: Highway 60 near Walmart, Peoria. Finish: Dutton Family Theatre, Mesa. Day 97 Tune of the Day: Frankie Goes to Hollywood – Two Tribes. This always reminds me of the Superbowl as it was what Channle 4 used to have as their accompanying music in the mid Eighties! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTOQUnvI3CA

The Return of the Giants...This Time They Had Company. Days 93-95

Nads had parked well out of the way here, so no-one would bother us and as a result it was very quiet and quiet increases the chance of a good sleep. Things followed the playbook and I felt a lot better this morning. The forecast was great for the day and after the first run I decided that it was time for the suncream to be retrieved from the back of the cupboard. Not bad for the start of February. The 4-2-1 plan was reinstituted and we were back on for a bigger day. I passed one of the last junctions that would give me the option of heading due east to Flagstaff and I'd decided that I was quite enjoying the nice weather and no love for finding myself (or Jenny with Nads) in minus temperatures when we didn't have to be. We always wanted to get Flagstaff near the end of the run anyway, so I didn't want tot empt fate by making that now. I was heading south. This was a good decision, especially as Nads had already gone south to our meeting point and had parked just outside a property boundary that stated that if we were to trespass, we would meet Jesus. This was of course very exciting – who wouldn't turn down this opportunity? What would we talk about? Does he like Arizona? Did he vote? Is he happy? I was about to head up to knock on his door, but then I thought he was probably busy with very important matters, so left him alone in peace. He can always follow on Facebook and get in touch if he wants, I guess. I will of course, keep the address to myself.

What a good day. They often happen after rubbish ones, which is fortunate as the run, like Forrest's, will continue as long as I'm enjoying or “feeling” it. If it became a burden beyond the physical and every day was a drag, you don't want to hear about that and I'd call it a day. This wasn't that day. Nearly 40 miles after I started I entered the town of Wikieup – a Mohave name meaning “Home”. We stayed at the Hidden Oasis RV Park, which was fortunately easy to find, due to the quirky, large metalwork sculptures that provided a cool frontage for the park. I popped in to the office and had a good old chat and was plied with chocolates by the staff of the park and cafe. Photos and goodbyes/good lucks said I headed back to the RV to grab my towel and head to the shower as a matter of urgency as public health considerations were starting to be mentioned...

Start: Petro Truck Stop, Kingman. Finish: Hidden Oasis RV Park, Wikieup. 38.5 miles. Day 93 Tune of the Day: BRMC – Whatever Happened to My Rock and Roll (Punk Song). Sometimes the Tune of the Day has no connection to a time or place, but its arrival via the great randomiser brings joy. This was the case here. Coming on late in the day it was a nod to regaining the good vibes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdTmk-YyUKg

I do like starting where we finished. Sometimes it means a lie-in, an excuse to procrastinate over first breakfast, or in this case, a useful early start. Heading off just at sunrise, with most of the town still indoors, I grabbed a few photos of the sculptures and soon enough I was surrounded by nature's own. I was back in Saguaro country. I absolutely love them and also the fact that apart from obviously relocated/specially grown ones, they seem to be an Arizona preserve. I was in no doubt where I was. Arizona has been good to us and having a constant visual reminder you were back was no bad thing. My other constant during the early part of the day was a convoy of trucks from the WWE – not a typo – this is the World Wrestling Entertainment organisation and I have to admit it's a guilty pleasure of mine. Nads tells me it isn't real, but what does she know. If a man jumps fifteen foot off a metal cage and doesn't die, I think that's impressive anyway, so bravo to them. I will also be excited to watch Wrestlemania in April at a time that isn't the early hours of the morning. It also made me chuckle that I was running for the WWF, which was also the former name of the WWE, before the Panda delivered a bodyslam to Macho Man Randy Savage et al. and reclaimed their name, which to be fair, they had first. The drivers were a fun bunch, all giving me the thumbs up and cheery faces to a man. As the country was pretty undulating, distractions from the hills were welcome, so this fitted the bill for me, as did crossing Burro Creek via a huge arch bridge. Now I've seen tons of rivers, dry as a bone, so for this creek to be a good 20 foot wide with solid flow, with Saguaros coming to the water's edge almost as if they were headed for a drink was a rare and impressive sight to finish a run leg off with. Nads hadn't arrived yet, so I got my stretching done and waited...and waited. I called on WhatsApp. Nothing. Urg. Then I saw her. We were both on Burro Creek Road, but she was at the other end, a good two miles back. A local ranger, Matt, pulled up and asked if he could help. It was then that Nads noticed and I saw her set off. Matt was a top guy and said that as a civil servant he “tries to actually help people when he can”, with a smile. I was a bit sad that he didn't get to, but thanked him for caring and told him it's great that people are doing things like this, both in his line of work and for me. Nads arrived and we resolved to both be a bit more careful when discussing meeting points.

Our next meeting point was Nothing. There was something at Nothing, but not much. A big sign saying Nothing. Half full litter bins surrounded with litter on the floor (Nnngggg...trying to...stop...going on...rant…), a derelict hut and a telecoms mast. A lot of people parked here, at the top of a big hill and Nads remarked that it would be a great place to open a cafe – it's about 25 miles from anywhere and you'd probably do a roaring trade in novelty t-shirts and keyrings. She said that person may not be her though. It would require a tough soul, I reckon. Leaving Nothing, looking for something, the next sight was not expected at all. A Joshua Tree. Hang on… There's always seemed to be of an unwritten law, that Joshuas and Saguaros generally have their own patches, like feuding Mafia families, they stick to their own, but there it was. A Joshua Tree. I imagined he was the representative of a family, sent into hostile territory to make peace, or carve up a new territory according to the laws of the time. This was different though. He seemed cockier and looking down the road he had company. This was a full on turf war – Saguaros ganging up on Joshua here, but hopelessly outnumbered elsewhere. I felt like I'd walked into a bar room brawl and the music had stopped. Bottles and chairs were being placed back down, while someone whistled in the corner. Two of them were so engrossed in their battle, I grabbed a sneaky photo and you'll see it as the blog's thumbnail pic. Enough amusement for me, I moved on, eventually coming to a sign near our place of rest for the night saying “Joshua Forest Parkway of Arizona”. That explains that then.

Start: Hidden Oasis RV Park. Finish: Highway 93 near Hackberry Springs. 42.7 miles. Day 94 Tune of the Day: Rick Derringer – I Am The Real American. Hulk Hogan's song in his heyday. I don't think he was driving any of those trucks though. They're the real Americans! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX_k5_egUAo

A great view from the RV meant that the eyes had it in the morning, though the ears did all night. We were really close to the busy road which had a real rough surface so you could gear a truck coming a half mile away. You never know how much it truly disturbs your sleep, but it felt like it took a long time to drop off and my period where I lie semi-awake listening for the alarm that I hope will never come seemed a lot longer. As an extra present it was a solid six miles of up to begin with. Hold the pace, run easy, don't push because you can, it'll come back to bite you later. My mind often wanders, running within myself, at least until I think “Hmmmm. This feels harder” and I realise I'm going too quickly. Pull back. This morning I compiled a few lists. One of these was under the category: Things a Trans-Continental Runner Needs to Know but Never Thought About Before. Entry number 16: Ranking truck types in order of those most likely to take your cap off as they go past.

3: Car transporters 2: Trucks carrying pipes 1: Hay lorries. Hay lorries grip the air like a vice and if I ever fall out of a plane without a parachute, I hope there's hay on board. If I don't remember to grab my cap or put my chin to my chest, it's gone and I have to retreat 20 yards or so. Chin to chest is also good for hay lorries as there's less chance of stuff going in your eyes. A combination of two trucks closely following each other is another sure-fire winner.

One day I'll write the full list, just in case any of you are getting ideas (P.S. Get the idea. If anyone is contemplating it – just give it a go. You never know, I might even be able to crew for you for a bit. NB! Chances increase if you fancy seeing how it's done from the master – Nadine, first! We have a spare bed...)

Another distraction, borrowed from Chris and Steve's successful crossing was to assemble a tool kit on the road. Now these guys actually did it, rather than my mental notes, but a haul of a 12mm spanner, an adjustable wrench, flat head screwdriver, needle nose pliers and wire cutters in a 24h period would have had them salivating. Chris has talked about another running adventure and he went further north than me on his, so I left them there for him. Over to you!

Our town for the day was Wickenburg – a fairly big place, with a period centre – a proper western town. The other striking feature was an abundance of roundabouts, or traffic circles! Wickenburg struck me as a place that put one in and was like: “OMG! These things are brilliant! Put more in! Traffic like, flows around them, rather than nervously looking at each other on a four way stop! Hang on, let's not just put them in, let's put SCULPTURES on them all. BIG sculptures!” So they did. Big sculptures on roundabouts everywhere. If I get the chance to come back and I hope I do, I expect to see no straight roads anywhere, just a contiguous flow of circles. The satellite pictures will baffle anyone who wasn't there when it all began. Leaving Wickenburg meant we passed through Allah, before we stopped for the day. I didn't see any signs on the road stating that, but we knew from Google Maps. Insert topical quip here…41 miles meant an average of 41, pretty much for the last three days. 4-2-1. 4-2-1...

Start: Highway 93 near Hackberry Springs. Finish: San Domingo Parkway, just south of Allah. 41.0 miles. Day 95 Tune of the Day: Bob Marley – Get Up, Stand Up. Lovely sunny days always make an appearance from Mr Marley better. What a message too? If you don't stand up for your rights, who will? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F69PBQ4ZyNw